Paul Apps - wildlife & figurative artist & Wildlife photographer
: News - Namibia 2004
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October 2004 saw one of my dreams come true. For many years I have wanted to visit into Namibia and in particular Etosha N.P. When the trip was agreed it was at such short notice. My decision was made and within a few weeks I was in Namibia.

Everything was new, the country, habitat, people that I was to meet and even my camera was new. I finally succumbed to going Digital. I was picked up and started my long drive to Swakopomund on the coast. My surprise was stopping a few miles down the road at a Burger King for a snack. Not quite the Burger King we all know, but after all it was Africa.

 
plein air painting in Damaraland

My first destination was a period of time in Damaraland. I was the guest of Blythe Loutett and Save the Rhino Trust. There I studied what went on behind the scenes as well as going out tracking wild black Rhino. The vast western desert area is home to the largest population of wild rhino outside of a protected National Park. This is due in the main to the huge ongoing efforts of Blythe and her teams of trackers. They have documented and help protect these wild stocks over many years. I was lucky enough to find myself in very close proximity to numerous Black Rhino on several occasions. I cannot express in words the feelings that I had, many so many. My heart pumped, my excitement knew no limits as each viewing of these magnificent animals happened.

The landscape is hostile, yet beautiful. One could be on the surface of Mars. I was able on occasions to get my paints out and enjoy some plein air painting. I learned so much from Simson (Field Director) and Mike Hearn. Both guys were so knowledgeable and made my trip there so absolutely mind blowing and unforgettable. I will always remain in their debt.

 
Catherine and I relaxing during the Namibia tour
 

At the end of this part of the trip I was joined by my partner Catherine. We headed off to Okinjima, the home of Africat. Africat was a welcome relaxation to a degree, whilst still making full use of the opportunities as they presented themselves. Africat was set up by the Hanson Family, taking the family farm interests and redirecting their efforts primarily in the saving and rescue of Cheetah in Namibia. Many cheetah are alive today, avoiding the persecution of the farmers etc, directly as a result of the Africat charity. I was so privileged to have been allowed to stay there. I learned so much from the few days, and look forward to returning one day. I was so happy that they had a pool there, I managed to get my toes wet for an hour one afternoon, very welcome.

The main reason for the trip Etosha was rapidly looming. We had had numerous thunderstorms and the rain was heavy over that way. I was so scared that when we arrived in Etosha all the game would had dispersed into the bush and away from the waterholes. I became quite convinced of this fact. Well I could not have been more wide of the mark. Trust me when I say, I was never happier to have been so wrong.

 
stepping out at New Brownii, Etosha

Etosha, what a place, my words are so insignificant, by comparison. I can describe it to you, but only a visit there would ever do it justice. It is a vast, dried primeval lake, cut off from the seaward track it once enjoyed by the movement of the earths crust. Once dried, huge natural springs now lie beneath. Today it is these springs that are the key to Etosha. They feed the many waterholes found throughout the National Park. The wildlife survives only because of the waterholes. When all else fails the water is there. It is what makes Etosha game viewing heaven. Armies of wildlife mad humans, brave the intense heat to sit at a waterhole just to see what turns up for a drink. It's not just mad dogs and Englishmen, and come to think about it, I did not see many mad dogs either. The game viewing is out of this world, It is all things and all species in one place. Each waterhole is unique, enjoying varied views and habitats, so it was a wildlife overload.

 
giraffe's at
 

One particular morning we watched as four Hyenas kept most other species at bay from a waterhole. They were intent on investigating something in the centre of the pool. After some time, we discovered what the interest was about. One Hyena pulled out the remains of a young Giraffes hind leg, whilst his mates were otherwise distracted. It was a little gruesome, except the Hyena was a happy chappy. He dragged off his find as fast as possible, before his chums discovered his prize, depriving him of it. This was one of many wonderful events we witnessed. Other things such as lion cubs, baby Elephants and so much more were enjoyed as they happened. We worked hard each day to record images and research new paintings for the forthcoming year. Up very early and out as the sun rose each morning and we fell asleep all too easily in the evening, tired, but very happy. Almost as fast as we entered Etosha our trip was ending and we had to leave. I can speak for us both, when I say that the time spent at Etosha was just the beginning. It was no time at all on this occasion, and I know that we will be back there soon. We hardly scratched the surface of this fascinating place, and using the knowledge we obtained on this trip we will explore more next time.

It is with great sadness that I have to report the untimely death of Mike Hearn, in January 2005. Sadly Mike lost his life whilst surfing off the coast of Swakopomund. Mike was a brilliant, sensitive young man, with Damaraland and the Rhinos in his soul. His fantastic wealth of knowledge has helped shape the very thinking of how we respond to Rhino conservation.

Beyond that he was a warm friendly person, an instant friend to all who met him. He is greatly missed. Mike is buried within the desert he loved, among the Rhino he helped protect…

 
out in SRT country sunset at