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October
2004 saw one of my dreams come true. For many years I have wanted
to visit into Namibia and in particular Etosha N.P. When the trip
was agreed it was at such short notice. My decision was made and
within a few weeks I was in Namibia.
Everything
was new, the country, habitat, people that I was to meet and even
my camera was new. I finally succumbed to going Digital. I was picked
up and started my long drive to Swakopomund on the coast. My surprise
was stopping a few miles down the road at a Burger King for a snack.
Not quite the Burger King we all know, but after all it was Africa.
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plein
air painting in Damaraland |
My
first destination was a period of time in Damaraland. I was the
guest of Blythe Loutett and Save the Rhino Trust. There I studied
what went on behind the scenes as well as going out tracking wild
black Rhino. The vast western desert area is home to the largest
population of wild rhino outside of a protected National Park. This
is due in the main to the huge ongoing efforts of Blythe and her
teams of trackers. They have documented and help protect these wild
stocks over many years. I was lucky enough to find myself in very
close proximity to numerous Black Rhino on several occasions. I
cannot express in words the feelings that I had, many so many. My
heart pumped, my excitement knew no limits as each viewing of these
magnificent animals happened.
The
landscape is hostile, yet beautiful. One could be on the surface
of Mars. I was able on occasions to get my paints out and enjoy
some plein air painting. I learned so much from Simson (Field Director)
and Mike Hearn. Both guys were so knowledgeable and made my trip
there so absolutely mind blowing and unforgettable. I will always
remain in their debt.
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Catherine
and I relaxing during the Namibia tour
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At
the end of this part of the trip I was joined by my partner Catherine.
We headed off to Okinjima, the home of Africat. Africat was a welcome
relaxation to a degree, whilst still making full use of the opportunities
as they presented themselves. Africat was set up by the Hanson Family,
taking the family farm interests and redirecting their efforts primarily
in the saving and rescue of Cheetah in Namibia. Many cheetah are
alive today, avoiding the persecution of the farmers etc, directly
as a result of the Africat charity. I was so privileged to have
been allowed to stay there. I learned so much from the few days,
and look forward to returning one day. I was so happy that they
had a pool there, I managed to get my toes wet for an hour one afternoon,
very welcome.
The
main reason for the trip Etosha was rapidly looming. We had had
numerous thunderstorms and the rain was heavy over that way. I was
so scared that when we arrived in Etosha all the game would had
dispersed into the bush and away from the waterholes. I became quite
convinced of this fact. Well I could not have been more wide of
the mark. Trust me when I say, I was never happier to have been
so wrong.
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stepping
out at New Brownii, Etosha |
Etosha,
what a place, my words are so insignificant, by comparison. I can
describe it to you, but only a visit there would ever do it justice.
It is a vast, dried primeval lake, cut off from the seaward track
it once enjoyed by the movement of the earths crust. Once dried,
huge natural springs now lie beneath. Today it is these springs
that are the key to Etosha. They feed the many waterholes found
throughout the National Park. The wildlife survives only because
of the waterholes. When all else fails the water is there. It is
what makes Etosha game viewing heaven. Armies of wildlife mad humans,
brave the intense heat to sit at a waterhole just to see what turns
up for a drink. It's not just mad dogs and Englishmen, and come
to think about it, I did not see many mad dogs either. The game
viewing is out of this world, It is all things and all species in
one place. Each waterhole is unique, enjoying varied views and habitats,
so it was a wildlife overload.
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giraffe's
at
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One
particular morning we watched as four Hyenas kept most other species
at bay from a waterhole. They were intent on investigating something
in the centre of the pool. After some time, we discovered what the
interest was about. One Hyena pulled out the remains of a young
Giraffes hind leg, whilst his mates were otherwise distracted. It
was a little gruesome, except the Hyena was a happy chappy. He dragged
off his find as fast as possible, before his chums discovered his
prize, depriving him of it. This was one of many wonderful events
we witnessed. Other things such as lion cubs, baby Elephants and
so much more were enjoyed as they happened. We worked hard each
day to record images and research new paintings for the forthcoming
year. Up very early and out as the sun rose each morning and we
fell asleep all too easily in the evening, tired, but very happy.
Almost as fast as we entered Etosha our trip was ending and we had
to leave. I can speak for us both, when I say that the time spent
at Etosha was just the beginning. It was no time at all on this
occasion, and I know that we will be back there soon. We hardly
scratched the surface of this fascinating place, and using the knowledge
we obtained on this trip we will explore more next time.
It
is with great sadness that I have to report the untimely death of
Mike Hearn, in January 2005. Sadly Mike lost his life whilst surfing
off the coast of Swakopomund. Mike was a brilliant, sensitive young
man, with Damaraland and the Rhinos in his soul. His fantastic wealth
of knowledge has helped shape the very thinking of how we respond
to Rhino conservation.
Beyond
that he was a warm friendly person, an instant friend to all who
met him. He is greatly missed. Mike is buried within the desert
he loved, among the Rhino he helped protect
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| out
in SRT country |
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sunset
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